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1. #DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER INSTALL#
2. #DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER MANUAL#
3. #DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER TRIAL#
4. #DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER SERIES#

After making sure you won't get electrocuted, feel the transformer as you're using it, starting from cold. If the overloading is mild, the transformer will just quietly overheat. I'd also make sure as I was using them that they're not getting too hot. I'd connect things up so that the smaller transformer is on the output side, because some energy will be lost on the input side - you want to dump that heat into the bigger transformer. Another way to get an educated guess is to weigh them, and compare with transformers of known weight and power capability. If the light was 10W, the transformer is 10W.

You can judge the power handling capability of a transformer by what the light that you took it out of was rated at. For good quality off the shelf transformers I would expect maybe a 5 or 10% drop - for salvaged transformers, I couldn't say. There's a slight problem that if you were to take two identical step-down transformers and connect them the way you're planning, the output voltage would be less than the input voltage. Connecting two center-tap transformers for isolation transformer I don't know the right terminology for this).

#DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER SERIES#

I salvaged them from an old lighting system at work which powered a series of halogen 'spotlights' (the small round halogen lights that shines downwards. Also the size of the two transformers are different. However, while the transformers have the label of '230V' on the primary and '12VAC' on the secondary, I don't know the current rating. Then the second transformer's 'primary' is connected to the unit in question.

Having read, I understand that I can have the incoming mains go into the first transformer, and have the secondary part be connected to the second transformer's secondary. This question is somewhat related to but without the centre-tap. Good luck on getting your system up and running.I've been reading up on isolation transformers and was wondering if I can set one up.

#DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER MANUAL#

I have AC, manual over ride on the fan and heat. I jumped "R" and "Rc" on the thermostat base and EVERYTHING WORKS. So I said my prayers and found the jumper. (Hooked up the other way around gave me heat but no AC). I hooked the "R" from the furnace and hooked it to the "Rc" on the thermostat base. I then to the "Lead" or "R" from the added 24 volt transformer to the "R" block. The "C" lead from the added 24 volt transformer goes to the "C" on the thermostat base. The HVAC call out fee is 250 USD so it is more than a new thermostat and it is only 24 V.

#DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER TRIAL#

So we moved to trial and error based on various videos on U-Tube. I said I have a "C" but where does the "Load" or "R" connect. Next adviser said basically the same thing. Electrical work must be done by an experienced HVAC person. First adviser said he could only help me with programming. Seems that they are not really focused on helping us DIYers. Touched "R" to "Y" and the outside condenser went on. Using the "R" from the furnace and touched it to the "G" and the furnace fan went on. I ran it off the 120V for the furnace so that it is off when the furnace was off. The HON adviser stated I needed to add an additional 24 volt transformer - which I did, a HON AT72D 1683. Much to my surprise, I found out you had to have a "C" terminal. I purchased a Honeywell RTH6500WF for installation. Simple reason is you need to have a complete circuit as you stated. I believe the above "recommendations" are wrong.

#DIY ABC BOX WITH ISOLATION TRANSFORMER INSTALL#

Do some reading on that end of the system and your success with T-Stat install will be much higher.īear with me on this story. There are many ways to apply HVAC to homes and many manufacturers have their unique methods.ĭo your home work and figure out what kind of furnace, boiler, AC you have. Goal is to have the C to a common or "always energized" power supply at your furnance/boiler, space pac, so on, so forth. This would be when you'd see indvidual RC and RH wires. In some cases, when the furnace is "off" and you're in cooling mode, you may have a separate cooling system with its own dedicated power supply. In a lot of cases, the transformer is used by the complete heating and cooling system - common to both. The stat is now "stealing" power from the 24V source at your furnace. The "C" terminal is COMMON or Neutral back to the power supply on the furnace. WIFI stats need to have power "all the time" to enable the connection to your home WIFI router. When the temperature meets Stat setpoint (stat is satisfied) the circuit opens and you hear another click. When you hear the T-stat click, a relay is closing and the Stat is closing a circuit back to furnace. Typical combination forced air furnace / AC configuration will source power when T-stat "calls for heat or cooling". That said, you do have to be careful and aware that control wiring for home furnance and AC are not intuitive. Contractors don't want DIY to know how this works because it eats into their livelihood.